A mega ramp, or megaramp, is the informal name given to any large-format vert ramp structure, often used in skateboarding and freestyle BMX. The name distinguishes a second generation of ramps which became increasingly popular during the 1990s-2000s transition years. They are so called to distinguish them from the more modest classic ramps used throughout the preceding decades of these sports and which were, at most, half-scale versions of these newer and larger ramps.
MegaRamp is also the name of a mega ramp event organization and promotion company.
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Structure[edit]
Contemporary structures are generally constructed of metal scaffold with a wood surface topped with Skatelite, and consist of two or three sections. The most common ramp setup, used as well by MegaRamp, is a sequence of three mega ramp sections; a roll-in, a gap jump, and a vert quarter pipe. Vert half-pipe mega ramps have been built in the past, but they are uncommon.
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The roll-in section consists of a single or multiple roll-ins that drop from 12m (40') or higher up. The purpose of the roll-in is for the athletes to be able to gain the speed needed to tackle the other sections of the ramp. A 60-foot tall megaramp is located at the home of professional skateboarder Bob Burnquist.[1][2]
The second section can be a gap jump, or a quarter pipe, though the gap jump option has become the most popular setup. Gap jumps range in distance from 7.5m (25') to 21m (70') between the launch and landing sections. The athletes clear the distance between the launch and landing sections of the gap jump by sailing through the air above the gap, and land on the landing section, which is sloped forward to decrease the landing impact.
The third section is almost invariably a quarter pipe.The quarter pipes can be 5.4m (18') or greater in height and serve as either a speed brake, or as another launch point from which the athlete sails directly vertical into the air off the top lip of the ramp, before falling back down and landing on the quarter pipe transition again.
Other additions and modifications have been tried on mega ramps, such as the tall flatbox with a rainbow rail that was added to the Point X mega ramp.
The total length of these structures varies from approximately 60m (200') to 108m (360') in length.
History[edit]
The first such giant ramp structure was conceived and built by BMX freestyler Mathew 'Mat' Hoffman in his Oklahoma home backyard between 1991 and 1992. It was a single 6.3m (21') tall vert quarter pipe ramp, with no roll-in ramp, from which Mat would launch and air after being towed into at speed by a motorcycle. In such way, in 1992 Mat set the Freestyle BMX air record at approximately 7.05m (23.5'). Mat later went on to build a full vert half-pipe ramp with similar dimensions, including a 12m high roll-in ramp from the top of the roof of his warehouse.[3]
Danny Way thought up the now common 'MegaRamp' setup, a specific type of giant ramp arrangement consisting of the roll-in ramp, the gap jumps, and the final quarter pipe ramp. This setup was first seen at Point X Camp in the OP King Of Skate pay-per-view special in 2002. It was introduced again and was officially called the MegaRamp in the 2003 DC Shoes video release 'The DC Video', where Way set two world records in the same run - Longest jump (75 ft) and highest air (23.5 ft).
In 2005, Way used a MegaRamp again to jump the Great Wall of China and became the first person to jump the wall without the help of a motor vehicle and land successfully. This was also the largest ramp structure ever built.[4] After one practice attempt, he landed the jump across the gap over the Wall four times in front of a crowd of Chinese dignitaries and officials, along with his family, friends, and thousands of locals.[5][6]
MegaRamp at the X Games[edit]
The MegaRamp has been employed in competition at the X Games, where it is called 'Big Air', since X Games X in 2004 for skateboard and 2006 for BMX. In 2007 Jake Brown fell 45 feet to the bottom of the ramp.[7]
See also[edit]
References[edit]
- ^Tony Hawk at Bob Burnquist's Mega Ramp. YouTube. 5 August 2009. Retrieved 11 December 2019.
- ^'Skater's MegaRamp is 'Dreamland' for pros'. San Diego Union-Tribune. 2016-06-01. Retrieved 2020-02-13.
- ^'The Birth of Big Air'. ESPN Films: 30 for 30. Retrieved 5 October 2018.
- ^'Skateboarding Sports Records'. Kidz World. Retrieved 5 October 2018.
- ^'Ollies, Spins, and Jumps: 10 Skateboarding Records That Defy Gravity'. Retrieved 5 October 2018.
- ^Higgins, Matt (November 1, 2006). 'A Skateboarding Ramp Reaches for the Sky'. New York Times. New York Times Company. Retrieved 2009-08-28.
- ^Higgins, Matt (2007-08-03). 'Skateboarding's Mega Ramp Is a Draw, but Also a Danger'. The New York Times. Retrieved 2009-08-28.
External links[edit]
Let's build a mini ramp! Wait.what is that, exactly?!A 'Mini Ramp' is a skateboard ramp (think: halfpipe) that is smaller than six feet tall and doesn't contain any 'vert', meaning that it doesn't go vertical in the sloped transition. The DIY mini ramp we're building here is 3 feet tall, 12 feet wide, and 24 feet long. It's the perfect size for casual skating and is awesome for beginners and experts alike.We also have plans available on our website:This is an outdoor ramp and we built ours in our backyard, so we're going to cover how to set up a foundation on uneven ground, how to frame it using 2x4s and plywood, how to add steel coping, how to sheath it with plywood, and how to weather-proof it so it lasts as long as possible outdoors.We recommend watching the video above and following along with the written steps! Supplies:TOOLS:. Miter Saw -. Circular Saw -.
Drill -. Impact Driver -. Cobalt Drill Bits -. Countersink Drill Bit -. Level -. Tape Measure -.
Chalk Line -. PencilMATERIALS:. 2x4' Lumber.
3/8' Plywood. 1/8' Plywood. 2' OD Steel Pipe (Schedule 40). Exterior Latex Paint.
2.5'Exterior Screws. 1.5' Exterior Screws. 1/2' Galvanized Bolts/Nuts/Washers. 12' x 12' x 8' Concrete FootingsThese are affiliate links. Clicking them helps support our projects.
The ramp we're building is 3 feet high, 12 feet wide and 24 feet long. Whatever the exact size of your ramp, you're going to need a flat piece of ground to put it. It's important that the ramp sits on level ground, so in a perfect world, it would sit either on a flat concrete pad or at the least on a wide level space.
In our case, our yard is neither flat nor level so we had to fix that.We start by laying out exactly where it will go in the yard and then use Concrete Footings (12' x 12' x 8') and put one at each corner. Because our yard slopes downhill, the ones at the top get buried quite a bit and the ones at the other end are above ground.
We use a line level to ensure all 4 corners are level with each other, as well as square and evenly spaced.Because the ramp is heavy, the foundation will settle a bit over time. To help keep it level for a long time we put a 3-4' thick layer of gravel underneath each of the footings.For the rest of the ramp, we'll put 2' thick concrete pavers every 4 feet along the length of the ramp. The first bit of construction is to layout and cut the sloped transitions that make up the sides of the ramp. For this ramp, we're building four different quarter pipes and each one has a transition on each side. So, we need to make 8 of them.These are cut from 3/4' plywood and we can get two transitions from one 4' x'8' sheet. To lay them out, we start by putting two sheets side by side on the ground and marking the pivot point which is 6' 3.5' from the bottom and 2' in from the side. Since 2x4s are 3.5' wide, this will give us a 6' radius slope.
Once we have it marked, we'll put in a screw and then tie a string to it. We'll then measure a 6' length of string and tie a pencil to the end and use it to draw the radius on the wood.(This part is easier to see and understand if you watch the video from Step One.)Next, we measure the back side to 2' 11.25' up from the bottom and then square that line across until it meets the curve we just drew. There is a small notch for the coping where that top-line meets the slope that is 1.25' tall and 1.75' deep.Once everything is laid out, we then cut the shape out with a jigsaw and use it as a template to mark the other seven pieces and cut them all out, being careful to get them all as close to the same as we can. We're building four quarter pipes: two that are 8' wide and two that are 4' wide.
We'll then bolt one of each together to give us a 12' wide ramp. The next step is to cut all of the 2x4s that will be used to frame each quarter pipe, so to get the right length we have to subtract the width of each of the 3/4' plywood transitions, which means subtracting 1.5'.That gives us a 2x4 length of 94.5' for the wider ramps and 46.5' for the shorter ones. Once we have these lengths, we then cut all the 2x4s down to length for all four quarter pipes. There are (34) 2x4s needed for the two wide ramps and another (17) needed for both the shorter ramps.To frame the quarter pipes, we screw in one upright 2x4 on each corner of the transition, one laid on its side at the top of the slope, and then one every 8' (upright) until we reach the bottom. We also put them along the top spaced at 8' apart and then lastly we cut some shorter pieces that go under the 2x4s at the top for added support for the deck.When screwing the 2x4s to the plywood, we use 2.5' exterior screws and we use two screws for each side. With all four quarter pipes built, we carefully position them all on the footings we made earlier. They're obviously heavy, so be careful moving them around!
Once all four of them are in position, we then need to ensure that they are square to each other, and as level as possible.This is the point when you'll add the concrete pavers underneath the ramps, spaced at 4', to support the weight of the ramp.To do this, we used a line level and ran it across all four corners, making small adjustments until we were happy that it was square and completely level.You may find you need to either raise or lower the concrete footings to get things level. If this is too difficult, another option is shimming underneath the ramp with wood to get the exact height you need. In between the quarter pipes, we'll use the same techniques to build two flat ground sections that connect everything together.One of them is 8' wide and 8' long. The other is 4' wide and 8' long.Once again we'll subtract for the width of the two 2x4s on the ends, which is 3', and that gives us a length of 93' for the wider section and 45' for the shorter one. It takes (15) pieces of 2x4 for the wide section and (9) for the shorter one.Once assembled, each section gets moved into place. We offset the short and long pieces from the ramps so that the seams do not all align. This gives it more strength when we bolt it all together in the next step!
Along the top edge of the slope and sitting in the notch is going to be the steel coping. This is used for the skateboard to slide across when you get to the top of the ramp. It has to be steel because it takes a beating from the skateboard, plastic or any softer metal like aluminum will dent or get broken.For each side, we need a piece of 2' black steel pipe that is 12' long. We had to go to a metal supply store to find this since our local hardware stores didn't carry anything this large.The exact pipe we used was 2' OD Schedule 40 Black Steel Pipe.The pipe sits squarely in the notch, but to attach it securely to the ramp, we'll need to drill holes every 2' along its length and then screw it to the ramp. On the front of the pipe, we drill a hole that is 3/8' diameter, and in the same place in the back we drill a smaller hole that is 3/16'.
The hole in the back is wide enough for a screw to pass through it and the hole in the front is a bit wider to make room for the head of the drill.Drilling through steel is difficult! We recommend using cobalt drill bits for this, as well as using a lubricant like a 3-in-1 oil to keep the drill bits lubricated as they're cutting. It's possible with lower quality drill bits but can take a very long time. Next, we'll sheath the entire ramp in plywood! We start with the upper decks and we use 3/4' plywood for this. This is the flat area on top where you stand. We make sure the front side is pushed tight up against the coping and then cut trim it to be flush with the back edge.For covering the ramp face, we're going to use two layers of 3/8' thick plywood and then a final layer of 1/8' on top.
Start by pushing a sheet of 3/8' tight against the coping and screwing it down to the 2x4s below. Repeat it all the way across the ramp, making cuts as needed until the entire thing is covered.It's important to have help at this step so that you can have one person push down hard on the sheet of plywood so it bends into shape, while you or another person screws it down.The second layer of 3/8' goes on next, but we want to offset it from the layer below so the seems don't fall in the same place. Start by ripping a sheet in half and then repeat the process by pushing it tight to the coping and working your way down.
It uses the same amount of material but offsets everything by half a sheet.If you're a perfectionist like we are, you can then use a flush trim router to trim all of the edges of the plywood so everything is perfectly flush and nice looking.:). Technically, we could stop at this point.but we're going to add one more layer of thinner plywood on top to give it a much smoother ride. We're going to use a 1/8' thick hardwood plywood but there are many different options people use for the top layer, depending on your budget. There are even skate ramp specific materials like Skatelite that are weather-proof and built just for this.Masonite is a great option for indoor ramps, but as you've seen in the full video. We tried it and it went very badly.:( Always consider your weather situation.The main thing to consider for this is that since we're building an outdoor ramp, it's going to get rained on.a lot.
We don't get snow here, but we do get a tremendous amount of rain so we want to make sure that whatever we use doesn't get ruined by water. If you live in a very dry area, masonite might be a better choice for you.
Whichever material you use, we recommend putting a small 1/16-1/8' expansion joint in between the sheets to account for any wood movement. As the moisture in the air changes with humidity, wood will move a little, so we want to leave room to allow for this.When we install this final layer, we rotate it 45 degrees and put it on diagonally. This makes it so all of the seams are angled and your wheels will never hit a seam at the same time, leading to a smoother ride. It also helps so that the screws aren't all in the same place as the layers below it.
(Also, it looks awesome.)We started by aligning one edge and working our way up and across. Since it's a perfect 45-degree angle, it actually takes the same amount of sheets as if you were putting them on straight.you just end up cutting a few in half at an angle to fill in the triangle areas.Lastly, and most importantly, you really don't want any screws sticking up on the top layer.so we used a countersink drill bit on each screw hole so that screws are slightly below the surface. You really don't want to fall on the ramp and slide across a screw sticking up.that would be bad. So, make sure each and every screw is slightly below the surface!In the end, after all three layers of plywood, the coping should be about 3/8' above the riding surface. If we just left the plywood as is, it might last a little while outdoors but the rain and humidity would ultimately ruin it pretty quickly.
In order to protect it and keep it lasting as long as possible, we painted the entire thing with an exterior latex house paint. We used the same color as our house so it matches a little better in the backyard.We taped off the steel coping and did coats of paint on the entire thing. We then used a flexible acrylic 'elastomeric' caulking in all of the expansion joints on the top layer of plywood.
Since it's flexible caulk, it leaves room for wood movement from the humidity but still keeps water from penetrating underneath the wood. We then did a final layer of paint on everything!It's been several weeks now and it seems to be holding up to the rain fairly well. Depending on your situation, you could also drill some small drainage holes in certain places so you don't get standing water on the ramp when it rains. Our son is currently two years old so he's too small to ride a skateboard still, but we wanted him to enjoy the ramp in the meantime so we added a basic climbing wall to the back of it as well as a plastic slide! He can now climb up and down the ramp and then slide down either the ramp face or the slide off the back. He plays on it all the time and it's been great to see him getting familiar and comfortable with the ramp before he can even push on a skateboard.:)We basically just screwed the board and slide into the back of the deck so it was secure and that's all we needed to do. We also made sure there were no screws sticking out of the bottom so we can climb around underneath it and have fun.Eventually, we'll add a railing up on the top so he can't fall off the back but for now, he's never out there unsupervised so that will be a future project.
This is so rad! I built a mini ramp in the warehouse that I work at. But I got a little ambitious and made the classic mistake of making it too high and too tight of transition. I can't remember the radius that I used but I was thinking about sitting down and trying to use some math to try and figure out a sort of rule of thumb equation for figuring out an ideal 'height-to-radius' ratio. I'm thinking of rebuilding my ramp and certainly considered using 1/8' hardwood as the top layer as well!
I don't believe I've seen that done before. I'll certainly be consulting this for my re-build. Thank you so much! This is a fun sized ramp.
You avoided the common mistakes made by novice ramp builders. Too narrow, too short and too tall kills the fun and makes ramps hsrd and scary to ride. These ramps are quickly abandoned However, I disagree with a few of the choices you made. Building sections and bolting them together is a fine, but your spans are too long. When using 2x4' you really should keep the max span width at 6' or less. For 8' spans 2x6' is the way to go. 4 6' sections would have been better than 2x4' and 2x8'.
Nice build anyways.